Defining Moments in Chinese Lingerie History

If you're into fashion history — especially lingerie — you’ve probably noticed that most stories focus on Europe or America. But let’s flip the script: China’s lingerie evolution is just as rich, bold, and culturally fascinating. From ancient corset-like bindings to today’s homegrown sexy revolution, here’s your no-BS guide to the defining moments in Chinese lingerie history.

The Silk Revolution (Tang Dynasty – 618–907 AD)

Forget everything you know about modesty. During the Tang Dynasty, women rocked loose, flowing silk robes with high slits and plunging necklines. Underneath? Lightweight under-bodices made of silk and cotton — the OG version of modern camisoles. These weren’t about restriction; they were about elegance and breathability in a humid climate.

The Footbinding Era & Restrictive Underwear (Song Dynasty – 960–1279)

Let’s get real: this wasn’t a win for women’s comfort. While footbinding took center stage, tight-fitting undershirts called duanzai emerged. Designed to flatten and conceal, these mirrored societal pressures toward modesty. Sound familiar? Yeah — it’s the ancient cousin of shapewear we still wrestle with today.

Republican Era Liberation (1912–1949)

Enter Western influence. After the fall of the Qing Dynasty, urban women in Shanghai started wearing modern Chinese bras inspired by European designs. The qipao (cheongsam) became a symbol of sensual elegance — form-fitting, often slit to the thigh, and worn with newly imported brassieres. This was the first real taste of body positivity in modern China.

The Mao Years: Function Over Form (1949–1976)

Revolution meant uniformity. The government pushed simple cotton vests (beixin) for both men and women. Lingerie? Practically banned. Sexuality? Not discussed. Bras were seen as bourgeois — so women either went without or modified menswear. Talk about a style blackout.

The 1990s Boom: Sexy Makes a Comeback

Post-reform China exploded with consumer culture. International brands like Triumph and Aimer entered the market. Suddenly, lace, push-ups, and padded cups were everywhere. By 1995, China’s lingerie market hit $1.2 billion — and hasn’t looked back.

Today’s Game-Changers: Local Brands Go Global

Now, homegrown labels like NEIWAI (‘inner/outer’) and Ubras are redefining Chinese lingerie design. They’re blending minimalism, comfort, and subtle sensuality — and selling millions online. In 2023, NEIWAI reported over ¥1.5 billion in revenue. That’s not just success — it’s a cultural shift.

Quick Timeline: Key Milestones

So what’s next? With Gen Z embracing body diversity and sustainability, expect more inclusive sizing, eco-materials, and bolder self-expression. The story of Chinese lingerie isn’t just about underwear — it’s about freedom, identity, and who gets to define beauty.