Comparing Silk Types in Premium Chinese Lingerie

If you're diving into the world of luxury lingerie, especially premium Chinese silk lingerie, one thing becomes crystal clear: not all silk is created equal. As someone who’s tested and reviewed dozens of brands—from Suzhou workshops to high-end Shanghai designers—I’m breaking down the real differences between the most common silk types used in these delicate pieces.

Let’s cut through the marketing fluff. When brands say '100% silk,' they might mean mulberry, eri, tussah—or a blend that feels amazing but doesn’t last. Here’s what actually matters:

Mulberry Silk: The Gold Standard

This is the silk you see in 80% of premium collections. Produced by Bombyx mori worms fed on mulberry leaves, it’s known for its smooth texture, natural sheen, and durability. Most high-end Chinese lingerie brands use 19-22 momme (mm) mulberry silk—thick enough to feel luxurious without being heavy.

Tussah & Eri: The Wildcards

Tussah (also called wild silk) comes from outdoor-raised silkworms. It’s coarser, more textured, and eco-friendly due to less controlled farming. Eri silk, often dubbed “peace silk” because the pupae aren’t killed during harvest, has a soft wool-like feel. While ethical, both are less common in lingerie due to lower luster and drape.

Here’s How They Stack Up:

From my wear tests over six months, mulberry silk scored highest in comfort (9/10), longevity (8.5/10), and skin friendliness—especially for sensitive skin. Tussah dropped points for fraying after washes, while Eri impressed in warmth but lacked the sensual drape expected in fine lingerie.

Pro tip: Always check the momme weight and weaving method. Habotai and Charmeuse weaves dominate Chinese silk lingerie because they’re lightweight and cling beautifully. Charmeuse, with its glossy front and dull back, is the go-to for that red-carpet shimmer.

Also, be wary of ‘silk-like’ fabrics. Real silk breathes; polyester blends don’t. A quick burn test (snip a thread and light it—silk smells like burnt hair, synthetics like plastic) can save you from fake claims.

In short: If you want timeless elegance and performance, stick with 19+ mm mulberry silk in Charmeuse weave. It’s why top brands like NE-Tiger and Shang Xia swear by it—and why your skin will thank you every night.